KiwiBird's Adventures

New kayaking gear

2012-01-14T19:06:00.013-05:00

I've reached a point in my paddling, and particularly in my readiness for WaterTribe's annual Everglades Challenge, that I don't actually need any new gear. Which is a pretty sad state of affairs.

But every now and then, someone releases a new piece of equipment that can make camping life just that wee bit easier, especially when it's 0200 hours, you've been paddling non-stop for 19 hours--probably against tides and with a head wind--and all you want to do is scoff something down, put up your tent and jump straight into your pit--even if only for a couple of hours.

With my tender hips, I've long given up the thinnish Thermarests that can conveniently be blown up by mouth (in an EC there's no time to let your mats self inflate). For the past five year's kayak camping--and past five ECs--I've been a die-hard Exped down mat user, which because of its internal down, can't be inflated by mouth. I have one of the older Exped 7s, where the mat's bag is also its bellows. It can take about five or so minutes to inflate the mat, considering I'm cramped into a small one-person tent, and the bellow's adapter sometimes slips off the mat's nozzle.

Thus I recently discovered Camp-Tek's Microburst. My Microburst arrived in the mail yesterday afternoon, and I've been playing with it ever since. Upon opening, the Microburst is beautifully packaged (see photo below), and comes with real English instructions. It also has an adapter for the Stephenson Warmlite (which is the smaller piece of equipment in the photo below). The Microburst comes with its own wee ripstop nylon bag (with drawcord), which keeps the inflater flap from opening by mistake (though it's recommended you store the machine without its batteries, and with the flexible inflater protruding).

Microburst takes two AAA batteries and weighs 65.2gms (2.3ozs, including batteries). For longer camping trips, Camp-Tek recommends using lithium batteries, and with that you should get about 25 inflations. All the technology behind the wee engine's rotors and engine can be read on Camp-Tek's website.

Cutting to the chase, this beauty filled my Exped 7 in about 90 seconds.

You may have to be a bit careful if you're stealth camping, as it is an engine. But it's not overly noisy; and heck, it only runs for the few seconds it takes to get the inflater onto your nozzle, and then the two minutes or less to inflate your mat.

Highly recommended!

Weekend away

2011-11-29T16:09:00.022-05:00

It's not often I get a chance nowadays to get a solo weekend away, so when the chance came a couple of weekends ago... An early dark start from Durham down to Harkers Island, packed the boat, parked the truck in the Ranger Station car park, filed a trip with the good folks there, and headed off.

Had a tight sail across to the Morehead City end of Shackelford Island, and punched out Beaufort entrance with the tide. Gets a bit tricky dodging all the fishing boats there. And then a great sail all the way up Shackelford, enjoying the beach line and the wild horses.

Camped on the island among the sand dunes just across from Lookout Bight. Took a long walk along the beach and enjoyed an early supper watching the most wonderful sunset around 1700 hrs. Snuggled in my tent with toasty down Macpac sleeping bags, reading the first half of a real live novel, Sue Grafton's U is for Undertow.

Cuppa and porridge the next morning, an incredible sunrise, temperatures warming up to around C20, but wasn't going to leave until I'd finished the book and waited for the dew to dry on the tent. 1000 and a slow two-hour paddle sail inside Barden Inlet, back up to Harkers. A true "holiday" 35km trip, altogether.

New gear on this trip: The smaller version of the CGear sand mat. In a word: fantastic. Being able to unload and load, sit and muck around, and no sand anywhere. As always (see previous blog entries), I cannot rave enough about these mats.

Also, the Crazy Creek HexAlite Original Chair. Finally, a chair I can roll up and fit in my Sisson's 7" hatches, and it's light and flexible. Having a chair of some sort is a true luxury.

And, of course, a Morehead City Els Shrimp Burger on the way home...

Out on the Pamlico: gear review

2011-04-26T15:09:00.031-04:00

Just back from a four-day Easter paddling trip with Floatsome (David). What a marvellous time we had! Trip report and map to follow....

As always, a few new pieces of gear really stood out on the trip:

CGear Sand-Free MultiMat: I cannot rave enough about these mats! On test here is the "small" mat, weighing in at 1.45kg (3.15lbs), and sized at 182.88cm x 182.88cm (6ft x 6ft), which should fit at least three to four adults.

To keep it secure, the sand mat has three securely sewn external D-rings each side, which aren't really necessary if the wind isn't blowing. Be warned that the D-rings don't fit the regular sand stakes I and others normally use for staking a tent on sand (the SMC Sno-Tent Stake)--instead I used my regular "land" stakes, which worked just fine.

As you can see from the image above, to lay the mat outside the entry to your tent, means no sand inside the tent or anywhere else on you. The technology's fantastic--sand and dirt falls straight through the mat, and doesn't come back up. I left the mat out overnight, and once the sun's on it, it dried fairly quickly from the night's dew or rain.

The MulitMat's fabric is very tough and thus a bit stiff. Since my hatch covers are only 20.32cm (8in) wide, David stored the mat in his Mirage's gaping rear hatch. I'm going to try out the small MultiRug next, to check its packability and pliability.

I wouldn't use the mat on an adventure race--a tad too heavy and bulky; but for weekend trips or expeditions where comfort's more the rule than weight is, the MultiMat's an essential piece of equipment to pack--for sand, dirt, grass or anywhere.

And what a great colour for a possible rescue!

NB: CGear very kindly sent me a MultiMat to test out--thanks, Ben!

High UV Protection Buff: I now go to great lengths to keep any sun off my face. In March's Everglades Challenge I wore a Kokatat Destination Baja sun hat.
While it did did the trick, it was a pain in the proverbial to un-velcro to talk or imbibe and then re-velcro--using two hands--every time. With the Buff you can just pull it down with one hand and reposition the same. The Buff's Coolmax gives you coolness and 95% UV protection. Love it!

Timolino Tabletop Mug: Currently on sale at Campmor! Everyone's got their favourite double-wall stainless steel insulated camping mug; this is now mine. And it has a very secure lid. Love not having my bottom lip burned when sipping hot tea. Also takes oatmeal, a very good NZ sauvignon and a few sips of cognac...

Sailing Kiwi-style

2011-04-04T16:31:00.007-04:00

While these aren't kayaks on car top or trailer, here's what gets NZ kids into sailing, Kiwi-style.

This is a a photo of my cousin Sue's family set-up. On the car top is a Starling--she and her husband have one each--but need to compromise who's out with their two young daughters today. The two boats on the trailer are the famous NZ P Class. This, with the Optimist, are the two most-sailed boats for Kiwi youngsters. The P, as it's most affectionately known as, helped produce some of NZ's most famous skippers, including Sir Peter Blake and Russell Coutts, to name only a few. It's often said that if you can sail a P, you can sail anything!

The 2.13 m (7ft) P was designed in 1923 by Harry Highet, and was first known as the Tauranga class, as Harry lived in Tauranga, which also happens to be my birth place. And they've been strenuously raced ever since.

If you happen to be able to find a copy, there's a terrific novel called Tauranga Adventure (Harrap, 1963) based on kids sailing P Classes. It was written by Tauranga resident (and one of my best friend's late uncle) Patrick Wilson.

The Starling is the next boat up, once you've outgrown your P. It's a 2.9m (9.6ft), one-design, and also has a great racing pedigree.

Great to see that some classic designs just never die!

RIP Thomas Eisner

2011-03-28T13:53:00.006-04:00

Nothing to do with kayaking, but lots to do with enquiry and adventure.

Thomas Eisner, a world-renowned authority on animal behavior, chemical ecology and evolution, died on March 25, 2011. He was one of my favourite people. When I worked at Sigma Xi, The Scientific Research Society, I was lucky to help arrange a film interview with Tom, talking about his Sigma Xi-sponsored research project trip--a true adventurous learning experience--he took with E.O. Wilson at the very beginning of their careers.

The interview's 9:05 mins (scroll down to an interview with Thomas Eisner(9:05) and click on that). You will recognize the excitement of an enquiring mind and a true believer in the wonders of being a scientist.

EC 2011 Gear Reflections

2011-03-15T21:20:00.031-04:00

It was a challenging Everglades Challenge this year, with strong headwinds and numerous weather fronts wrecking havoc on times during the race and somewhat slowing things down. It was a race when you needed your boat and your gear to perform to its best. But most of all, it was a race where you needed yourself to perform both physically, but even more so, mentally. Of the 74 boats that started the race on March 5, only 30 finished.

So what gear performed well, or didn’t, for me this year, my fifth Everglades Challenge.

The boat: As always, and perhaps even more so, my Sisson Arctic Raider performed brilliantly. In the 80km (50mph) gusts we experienced when the front hit us Thursday; in the pitch black, high breaking shoals we got caught in outside Big Carlos Pass; to the 25mph winds on the for’ad quarter all the way home on the last day, I gained new respect for the boat.

Greenland paddle: Still using a GP for the race, and loving it. Once again I used a paddle made by previous EC challenger StripBuilder—a beautifully laminated stick. It was particularly useful when we got caught by the breaking shoals off Big Carlos Pass and Thursday's front.

Pacific Action Sail (PAS): Another brilliant Kiwi product. Contrary to all the “wind-on-the-nose" stories, I did get a bit of sailing in this year. But be prepared when you have a front bearing 80km (50mph) winds. I didn’t get the sail down in time—the winds hit so quickly and I thought I’d have time to reach shelter. When the wind and rain hit, I immediately let both sheets go. I deliberately have the sheets a length that if I do have to let them go, the sail won’t flop over the bow of the boat and catapult me with trapped water. The wind was so strong I couldn’t bring in either of the released sheets, so I grabbed the knife on my PFD and cut the windward sheet. Only after slowly bringing the bow of the boat up into the wind could I furl the sail and lash it to the deck. Another trick to remember with your PAS is that when you're sailing direct down wind, never to let it oscillate—pull one sheet in a bit. It sounds as though this contributed to Dolphin Gal's capsize.

Knife: As mentioned above, I had to cut the windward sheet on my PAS in able to furl it. It’s the first time I’ve ever used my knife—a NRS Pilot Knife—“in anger”. It’s an EC rule to carry a knife on one’s PFD; and I surely appreciated that at the time. (Unfortunately, I lost the knife after the PAS incident, when I didn’t correctly click it back into its holster—another lesson learned. Thanks to KneadingWater for lending me his for the last leg of the race.) It also made me appreciate that I didn't have a folding knife, as I've previously used—one hand was on my paddle for bracing, the other for the knife.

SPOT tracking system: I lost mine half-way through Day 1. This year, folks seemed to have a few problems with their SPOTs, losing "transmission" during particularly stormy weather, or just crashing. I was loaned a new one (thanks, Etch) when I reached CP1, and never had a problem with that one. I still believe them to be great products. I've bought a replacement secondhand (yet never used) old version.

Sleeping system: Tried and trusted 1C (30F) discontinued REI synthetic sleeping bag and Exped DownMat 7. I still have the old bellows Exped, and like the bellows bag stuffed with dry clothes for a pillow. I am getting quite tempted by the Exped air pillow…

Tent: As always, my Macpac Microlight, which is not free-standing, but I can string up quite happily on a chickee. At 1.8kg (I have the older version; new is 1.6kg), heaps of solo room, and the inner pitches with the fly, I'll use no other.

Clothing: Kept it to a minimum. I wore a pair of ExOfficio boy shorts cut for underwear, with an old pair of Macpac cotton shorts over those. On top was either a long-sleeved REI SPF 50+ polyester shirt or an Icebreaker 200 Bodyfit Crew top. My paddling jacket is a Steve Gurney light racing jacket—sadly he doesn’t make then anymore. When it chilled down in the evenings, I put on a Mysterioso top. Every night I’d strip off and leave my clothes hanging on a nearby tree. There was a dew most evenings, and the fresh water helped a bit with the salt in the clothes.

Wet weather gear: Once again, my Reed Chillcheater Coverall cag was invaluable. When the front hit us Thursday at noon with stinging rain and 80km (50mph) winds—and the temperature dropped from 27C to 10C degrees (80F to 50F) in just half-an-hour—I threw the cag on over my PFD and made for CP3 in Flamingo. The cag was also measured to fit my ocean cockpit rim, offering double protection from the waves over the sprayskirt. I wore it again all the last chilly day (10C), from CP3 to the finish at Key Largo. When the winds hit 40km (25mph) on the nose I had to take it off and put my PFD over the top of it, as it was ballooning like a parachute and even with fierce paddling I couldn’t make headway!

Lighting system: The head lamp I used the most is the Underwater Kinetics 3AAA eLED Vizio Headlamp, which is excellent—light and comfy, and also has a red diffuse. For spotting camp sites in the pitch black I used a new Fenix HP10, which was very good.

GPS: My new Garmin GPSMAP 76CSx arrived two days before I left for the race. Loved it. And the batteries seemed to last for ever.

Food: I ate a lot this year! And I don’t think I lost any weight, which I normally do (dang!). I probably consumed around 10-12 energy bars a day, eating an entire bar every 90-120 minutes. But I needed the calories with all the headwinds and hard paddling experienced this year. And thankfully, even after nearly 19 hours of paddling on the first day (and then only two hours of “sleep”), I felt remarkably energetic the entire week. I discovered a few new bars I could eat one or two of every day: Cliff 20g protein Builder’s Chocolate Mint (YUM!), Cliff Bar Cool Mint Chocolate, Honey Stinger Protein Bar (sure packed a punch when needed!), and Hammer Chocolate Gel. Funnily, one of my favourite bars is still the Nature Valley Oats ‘N Honey, bought in bulk from Costco. Sadly, I cannot eat Larabars anymore—the fruit content kills my gums after Day 1. And my dried mango always goes down a treat—a real energy boost. Every evening I’d down an Ensure Plus, now with 350 calories. For the first two evening dinners—at 0300 and 2200 hours respectively, I scoffed a tin of sardines in oil—fabulous. Every other evening we cooked up a freeze-dried (we ate at the new restaurant in Flamingo on the last night). I always try and buy a few Back Country Cuisines when I'm back in NZ, and they make a tasty change. Of the 6.87 kgs (15.5 lbs) of food I packed, I returned with 2.1kgs (4.6 lbs). So I can still get better… ;)

Personal health: I worked hard at this this year. In previous ECs, my derriere has suffered. This year, every morning, I lathered myself with Desitin. What a difference that made! I still had one abrasion—from the very wet of the first day—but it was limited pretty much to just that. After Day 2, my right heel cracked—I kept applying Desitin to that every morning, and the heel cleared up in a day. Every night, no matter what time I hit my pit, I cleaned myself down thoroughly with one extra large wet one and a couple of smaller wet ones. Then I’d coat myself with baby powder to dry up any excess moisture. I am convinced that going to bed with a dry body gave me time to dry out—even if for only a couple of hours. As usual, the tip of my right forefinger is numb—usually takes a month or so to repair itself. As always, I religiously used my SunPaws, from Hydraulics—anything to cut out the sun on the back of the hands. This year, I was not going to have my
lip crack on me again—I wore a full cover Kokatat Destination Baja sun hat. It was a pain in the butt whenever I wanted to sip from my drinking hose, or eat, or talk—having to clear away the Velcro and then use two hands to replace the Velcro when you’d done, but it sure did the trick in keeping my lips out of the sun. Next year I’m going to try a High Protection UV Buff—much easier to yank up and down.

Pre-race training: Bugger all, to put it mildly. I managed three longish paddles in January and February (which were my first since late September 2010), but was fairly consistent with 15-20 minutes of core exercises every other day. I should be shot. But, really, an EC is all mental. And that I am well prepared for.

Coming up: day-by-day blows of the race.

Thanks, and more to come...

2011-03-15T07:49:00.005-04:00

A huge thank you to Floatsome (David) for managing my blog and race updates on the WaterTribe site during this year's Everglades Challenge--he did a magnificent job.

And a big thanks to all my fellow WaterTribers--truly kindred spirits.

I'll get my gear and race review up as soon as possible.

In the meantime, it looks as though the race results are now up on the WaterTribe website. With losing my SPOT (tracking device) around mid-day on Day 1, and a new one being brought on line for me (thanks for the loan, Stan!) at CP1, my times for CP1 and CP2 are a bit skewed--just read them the same as Seiche's.

Some of the photos and video are being kindly posted by folks:
energy2paddle
Bumpy & MachoMan
and more video here.

Epiologue

2011-03-12T11:47:00.002-05:00

I had a great conversation with Kristen late yesterday afternoon. She'd had a nap (not to mention that hot shower) and was feeling pretty excited about the previous six days. The trip across Florida Bay was truly harrowing, and there are more details about the passage of the front that I think everyone will find interesting. There was also an encounter with four young men in the Everglades that led to a finger-lickin' good meal (not something you normally expect deep in the nowhere).

I'm going to leave it to her to tell those stories--as well as do her usual gear review--so be sure to check back regularly. It's been a great deal of fun, if at times a little nerve wracking. Thanks to FlieswithKiwiBird for meticulous reporting and to you for your support. Maybe we'll meet here again next March.

Floatsome

Photos at the Finish

2011-03-11T13:06:00.005-05:00

Courtersy of Paul Stewart (DanceswithSandyBottom), here are some images at the finish. Thanks, Paul!

Waiting. Notice how everyone is bundled up. Might be wrong, but I think that's RunningLiz and KneadingWater at far right. I should know KneadingWater, as the day I paddled with him, that was my view.

At left, that's Dawn Patrol. I think Yellow Thing (Meade and Jan Gougeon) is on the other side of the pier.

No mistaking the KiwiBird rig. That's Seiche's boat to the right.

Cocoa. Maybe a tall, cool one(s) later.

Word from Key Largo

2011-03-11T10:59:00.002-05:00

FlieswithKiwiBird heard from the KB a few minutes ago. It wasn't a long conversation as KW was very anxious to get into a hot shower and warm up. The conditions on Florida Bay early this morning were pretty appalling. At Manatee Key it was blowing 25-30 knots and was in the 50s. She and Seiche were together the entire time, and KB extends her gratitude to a fine teammate.

No photographs as yet, but they should start flowing later this morning.

WooHoo!

2011-03-11T09:45:00.004-05:00

KiwiBird alit at the Bay Cove at 10:30 this morning, for a total time of 6 days, 3 hours and 3n minutes (don't have the exact minutes yet). [Update: 6 days, 3 hours, 24 minutes.] This will be her second fastest EC, bettered only by 2008, when she finished in 5 days, 10 hours and 15 minutes.

I'll post photographs as soon as they arrive (well, maybe not during the Carolina-Miami game).

7 Miles To Go

2011-03-11T08:34:00.002-05:00

KiwiBird and Seiche just passed Bottle Key and will soon be in "the ditch" (Intracoastal Waterway). They have been able to see antennae on the keys since Manatee Key, if not before that--perhaps as early as dawn. I imagine that's quite a motivator, and they may be needing one if the predicted 20+ knot winds from the north have actually materialized. At Key Largo the temperature is 58 and the wind is gusting to 21 mph out of the north. At least they'll be in the lee of some islands soon.

The big question in my mind: Is 10:00 to early for a tall, cool one?

Twisty Mile

2011-03-11T04:44:00.002-05:00

KB was underway again at 02:50 and is currently in Twisty Mile, the most notoriously convoluted and narrow section of channel in Flordia Bay. It is marked by sticks and is not a lot wider than a powerboat. This is roughly halfway across Florida Bay, but in terms of navigation, there are only two more significant landmarks to make: Jimmy Channel and Manatee Pass. Then she'll come around the north end of Manatee Keys and have a more-or-less straight shot at 90 degrees true to the Intracoastal Waterway a couple of miles south Sunset Cove.

Perhaps a Hold

2011-03-10T22:15:00.002-05:00

It's been an hour and a half since any position info has come in. The last Spot coordinate indicated a turn to the north, toward Rankine Key. This island has some lee shore tonight, and maybe they'll bed down there. I'll be snoozing on and off, but when and if I'm awake and I know something, tune in.

Into the Night

2011-03-10T21:42:00.004-05:00

It's been more than an hour since I've been able to see a new KB Spot track. The last received was at Dump Keys, which is about three miles west of Twisty Mile, where her intended course across Florida Bay would become clear. Thus the decision has been made, but we can't see it yet.

I'm learning that this is becoming routine when conditions are difficult. Two other competitors disappeared for more than five hours today according to Spot tracking, but at this point they appear to be okay. I've noticed that overhead vegetation can prevent transmissions; apparently a rocking boat can too. Sometimes no news is unnerving.

On the image above, you can see Dump Keys at left. If KB goes north, Crocodile Dragover is at the south end of Big Key. If she takes the usual route, which I expect she will, Twisty Mile starts just east of End Key. You can see the channel just above "Google."

On the Move

2011-03-10T19:41:00.002-05:00

Apparently the weather is offering a break and KB is on the move. The first Spot transmission was at 18:12. She's not to the point where the route chosen is clear. I'll be watching and will report back.

Late Friday update

2011-03-10T17:48:00.002-05:00

Some of you may have seen a post on the WaterTribe site suggesting that KB, Seiche, Hammerstroke, Sundance and PaddlePeddler were about to head out of CP3. As of 17:49 KB's (well Etch's) Spot remains off, and Log entries from Sundance and PaddlePeddler suggest that they are planning to do exactly what KB and Seiche planned to do: see if the winds calm in the wee hours.

I suspect they were all portaging their boats over to the Florida Bay side, and it looked like they were getting ready to depart, which they probably were, except not for many hours. I'll keep checking this evening, but it looks like things are according to plan.

Flamingo

2011-03-10T13:35:00.005-05:00

They have arrived but have not yet portaged around the dam. A front went through about 12:30 with a torrent of rain and wind. They were well protected from the wind, and the rain was likely welcome--just a preview of the intentional shower yet to come.

I'll keep an eye on the Spot track this afternoon to see what they decided to do. If KB can get text messages, she has the weather forecast and the info about my GPS.

Update: A quote from ThereAndBackAgain on the WaterTribe Discussion Forum:

"I've been told that just a little while ago when a front came upon Seiche and KiwiBird that it caught them off guard. Kiwi had her PAS up and the winds were so strong that she couldn't bring it down. Quick action with a knife saved the day! We can now see once again why we have some of our rules; like a knife on our PFDs."

For those of you who don't do kayak initialisms, PAS is Pacific Action Sail. If she was unable to bring the sail down with the sheets, she would have been forced to cut at least one of them to let it luff. Quick thinking on her part. Just glad she's okay.

Update Two: FwKB talked to KB a few minutes ago and got the full story. At 13:15 KB and Seiche were about five minutes from CP3 and paused for Seiche to take a picture of KB against a very black cloud. With no warning the wind instantly went to 40 knots. Waves became very large very quickly and sheets of rain fell, as the temperature dropped from 80 to 50 degrees.

Seiche capsized, and KB had to cut both sheets to get her sail down. He was able to self-rescue and KB managed to get ahold of one of the sheet ends and pull the sail out of the water and onto the deck. She got out her cag, which is basically a raincoat that attaches to the lip on the boat where the spray skirt normally snaps. That helped her get warm, and they proceeded on to CP3.

At CP3 they were met by Seiche's spouse, along with KneadingWater and his spouse. Dry clothes and a microwave burger made everything better.

It's quite windy and cold in Flamingo now, and they're not considering continuing until very early tomorrow morning, when the winds might ease enough.

Whitewater Bay

2011-03-10T10:00:00.004-05:00

KB slept in this morning. She and Seiche weren't on the water until 06:55. As you can see, they've decided to cross Whitewater Bay. The winds are reasonable at the moment, and they passed into the bay on the end of a flood tide, so progress is good. Winds are predicated to increase to 10-15 knots by 13:00, but they should be mostly clear of the bay by then.

Weather is supposed to deteriorate markedly tonight. The marine forecast for Florida Bay includes a small craft advisory starting this afternoon through tomorrow. The wind will shift to the northwest late this afternoon rising to 20 knots and gusty, then 20-25 and gusty overnight. Intermittent rain and scattered thunderstorms. Winds go to the north tomorrow afternoon at 15-20, then to the northeast, and the "bay waters very rough."

I hate to mess up a respectable prediction record, but tomorrow might be a day for a different route across Florida Bay. Rather than going through Twisty Mile, a paddler can turn north and go through Crocodile Dragover and The Dragover, which is what Salty Frog did yesterday. This would keep them pretty close to the windward shore, meaning smaller waves, since the fetch (distance over which wind can blow and build waves) would be smaller. Trouble is, I don't know if they have this plotted in their GPSs. KB has the same routes and waypoints in her new Garmin as Seiche does, because they all shared (including Kneading Water). KB has my Garmin as a spare, and it has that route, but she probably doesn't know that. Oh, well. Idle speculation.

In any event, they should make Flamingo at a reasonable hour today--early enough for a microwave burger or two. The only hitch is the portage at the dam on Buttonwood Canal. Fortunately, they can help each other, so it shouldn't be a problem.

Want to know more about Whitewater Bay? Here's a good source.

2011-03-09T16:39:00.003-05:00

At 16:35 KiwiBird (and presumably Seiche) were a little more than 5 miles from Shark River Chickee, the location of which is shown above. I know that isn't terribly informative, and zooming in in Google Earth doesn't actually show anything I could be sure is a chickee, so if you want to see more, please have a look here. Everglades Diary has nice descriptions of the chickees of Everglades Park as well as directions for getting to them. KB should be there by 18:00 assuming the tidal current isn't too bad.

The attrition rate in this Challenge continues to be pretty challenging. SandyBottom declared this morning in Chokloskee, reporting oozing abrasions that had no business on the Wilderness Waterway. I've actually paddled with Dawn more than Kristen--although trips with both have been the best--and I can assure you she is not a quitter. This is her eighth Everglades Challenge and only DNF. She is also the only woman ever to complete the 1,200 mile Ultra Florida Challenge. One notable characteristic that Dawn has that matches her toughness is her sound judgment. It was hard for her do, but it was necessary. May she enjoy tall cool ones in Key Largo this evening!

Unless something changes, I'm going to take the evening off. Talk to you soon after sparrow fart tomorrow.

How to Earn an Alligator Tooth

2011-03-09T10:28:00.004-05:00

Apologies for the delay in posting this morning. I had an early meeting, and work just doesn't seem to have the right priorities.

KiwiBird overnighted at Lostman's Five Bay last night and was underway again at 06:05. On the image above, her overnight position was at waypoint 33. As of 10:20 this morning, she was at 50. Once she and Seiche get down to the second horizontal "lake," they'll turn westward on Broad River to the Nightmare, which actually runs vertically a little ways in from the gulf. Despite their names, Broad River isn't broad and the Nightmare isn't so nightmarish. KiwiBird and SandyBottom reported last year that Broad River was actually the narrowest and most overgrown spot in the Challenge.

The Nightmare intersects Harney River, and they'll turn back to the east to Tarpon Bay. There it's a right turn onto Shark River, and Shark River Chickee lies just a little ways past the split of Shark River and Little Shark River on the Little. Speaking of, if you didn't already beat me to Wikipedia, "chickee" is the Creek and Mikasuki language word for "house." The style of construction was adopted by the Seminoles and Miccosukees during the second and third Seminole Wars. Chickees typically have a palmetto thatch roof, as seen at Shark River (photograph once again purloined from last year's E.C.), which may explain why Lostman's Five Bay isn't called a Chickee.

KB and Seiche could easily go farther today, but I'm guessing they won't. If you divide the distance between Lostman's Five Bay and Flamingo, you pretty much come up with Shark River Chickee. Another choice would be Oyster Bay Chickee, but I haven't heard much about that one. It's also a bit out of the way if they're planning to cross Whitewater Bay. The wind forecast suggests they will, so Shark River makes sense. Incidentally, if you'd like to see something with more detail, the National Park Service has a nice downloadable pdf map of the park.

Finally, if you're wondering about the title, what KB and Seiche started to do yesterday and will finish tomorrow is follow the Wilderness Waterway from Chokoloskee to Flamingo. It's about 30 miles farther that the direct outside route, not to mention overgrown in many places and well populated by large creatures with big teeth. A Challenger earns an alligator tooth for her or his trouble.

Lostman's Five Bay

2011-03-08T17:15:00.002-05:00

The photograph above is cheating. It's actually from last year's E.C. That's Scareman and SandyBottom on the chickee. Why chickee? Don't know, but I'll find out before KiwiBird and Seiche reach the Shark River Chickee tomorrow. What chickee? That's pretty apparent: essentially a pier that connects to nowhere with a PortaPotty for amenities. These are maintained by the National Park Service, and in a region where there's not much solid ground, they're just what the discerning paddler is looking for.

I don't imagine that KiwiBird and Seiche have gotten there yet, but I wanted to post a picture before it got dark. ;) Perhaps KiwiBird will lob in a Check OK on her (well, Etch's) Spot when she gets there. More when I know more.

Aha!

2011-03-08T09:35:00.005-05:00

KB checked in with FwKB a few minutes ago. They arrived at the ranger station about 08:30 and were there for about a half hour; by now they should be at CP2. They left a message for SandyBottom with the ranger and included her in the reservations for camping at Lostman's Five Bay (tonight) and Shark River Chickee (tomorrow night). While at the station, they also rinsed out some clothes, filled all water bladders and ... got ice cream.

KB said they have seen many, many turtles. She reports that they are both feeling great and are really looking forward to getting into the park.

Approaching CP2

2011-03-08T08:52:00.004-05:00

KiwiBird and Seiche arrived at Indian Key about 20:30 last night, and were back on the water this morning about 06:00. The yellow line shows the path I expect them to take, but I've never been there, so I could be wrong. The yellow flag at the top of the image marks the Everglades Park ranger station, where they will stop to get a permit to camp inside the park. The station is open only from 08:00 to 16:30, so there was no point soldiering in last night against the tide.

I expect to hear from KB when she reaches Everglades City, although it may be indirectly through FwKB. That will be probably the last cell phone signal until most of the way across Florida Bay, most likely some time on Friday. Sometimes there's a weak signal at CP2 at Chokoloskee. When they check in at CP2, I won't be surprised if there's an ice cream cone in the offing.

SandyBottom stopped for the night at White Horse Key and was underway about the same time that KB and Seiche were. I'm hoping they'll cross paths at the ranger station or at CP2. When she gets to CP2 I'll be surprised if there isn't an ice cream cone in the offing.

DanceswithSandyBottom and SOS reached the finish at the Bay Cove Inn on Key Largo about 01:40 this morning. According to Steve, they had a great time crossing Florida Bay, but when I checked about 01:00 the winds had mostly died--hence their relatively slow progress. No matter. They came first in class and third overall. Way to go guys!

On the edge of the Glades

2011-03-07T18:21:00.004-05:00

Heard from KiwiBird about 10 minutes ago. The connection was very bad, so I'm guessing she was on the edge of Verizon coverage, which would have put her close to Gullivan Key. She said it was an absolutely beautiful evening. In my imagination--because I've never been there--I see this as the beginning of the most special part of the trip. Of course, she's the one who's convinced me of that, and by all evidence, I'd be a lifeless lump IF I could get that far.

Neither the tides nor the ranger-station-open-hours favor an immediate assault on Everglades City. She and Seiche will camp somewhere (White Horse Key, Indian Key?) and decide on whether to leave at very small digit hours to ride the tide in.

They still have not connected with SandyBottom, and cell coverage will be minimal-to-none until they get to Everglades City. Even there, it will be a short period in range of civilization. After that it's black out for about two days.

PS I forgot to mention that DwSB and SOS are into the Twisty Mile with a trace of daylight left. By all reports, navigation thereafter is no given, but they may be through the worst of it. They could be 3-4 hours from Key Largo.

Surf's Up

2011-03-07T14:13:00.004-05:00

KB checked in with FwKB about 1:45. She and Seiche stopped at Wiggins Pass for water, and it was an interesting surf landing. Little sand left there. She hardly recognized the place.

They are just short of Capri Pass into Marco Island, experiencing 6-7' swells. Had a dolphin get big air nearby and then disappear.

2011-03-07T13:29:00.001-05:00

KiwiBird, still paddling with Seiche, is about 4 sm from Capri Pass at Marco Island and making excellent progress. I had thought they were with SandyBottom, but Steve talked to her shortly ago, and she hasn't seen them. She went inside at Gordon Pass and is just to the north in the image above. Others nearby are Whale to the southwest and Cwolfe, farther to the west. AhMaChamee is aat the top of the image.

Tides are not favorable for an attempt at Indian Key Pass this evening, so I expect they will camp and make the entrance to Everglades City in the wee hours tomorrow.

In other news DwSB and SOS have rounded Cape Sable and are less than hour from CP3. They should finish today, but perhaps not until after dark. They are first in class and third overall at the moment.

Monday morning

2011-03-07T07:55:00.003-05:00

KiwiBird and Seiche camped near New Pass last night, and KB checked in with FwKB about 22:45. Yesterday was a tough but exhilarating day. KB had waves breaking over hear head in Charlotte Sound, but there was also much wildlife to be seen: numerous sea turtles and several manatee. She and Seiche are in good spirits and feeling healthy, and were on the water before 0700 this morning. SandyBottom camped nearby and launched a little earlier than they did, but I expect the three of them to be together shortly.

Winds are favorable for good southward progress today, and making as much of it as possible is their only plan. This is particularly motivated by a predicted shift to winds out of the east tomorrow. Will they pass up dinner at Marco Island? Without Kneading Water there to tempt them, there may be a tendency toward tunnel vision. We'll see.

In other news, DwSB and SOS are well are on their way to taking Class 4 and third overall. They passed through CP2 last night and were near Shark River this morning. They'll round Cape Sable before noon and sign in at CP3. Then Florida Bay is all that's left.

SewSew managed to reach the finish less than hour ahead of Bumpy and Machoman. Amazingly close race, and Randy should have some great new sleep deprivation hallucination stories to tell.

Late afternoon Sunday update

2011-03-06T18:22:00.002-05:00

At about 1800, KB and Seiche were passing under the Sanibel bridge at Ft. Meyers. Winds have begun to turn in their favor and their speeds are quite good. KB's Spot report showed 5.5 nmph, which means they've either found a very favorable tidal current or the wind is helping--or some of each.

My earlier suggestion of Wiggins Pass for tonight is probably too optimistic given the hold before crossing Charlotte Harbor and the nasty conditions, but KB knows some places short of there to take a break. The winds favor moving forward as much as possible now, as they are forcast to come from the east by dawn on Tuesday. Shelter in the Everglades would be good. But they have dealt with some really challenging conditions, and rest may be a priority now. KB has shown an uncanny knack for making the best of such situations in the past, and there's no reason to think she won't again.

SandyBottom is not far behind, having pushed through with her usual persistence. DwSB and SOS are more than half way between Ft. Meyers and Marco Island; they may be leading Class 4, but it's possible I've overlooked someone, as the Challenger Mapper is still suffering some from the level of interest.

If I hear from KB tonight, I'll report again, but she is not required to check in again until 1000 tomorrow.

Late morning Sunday update

2011-03-06T10:44:00.002-05:00

KB called about 1000 and left a voicemail message wondering about weather reports. She and Seiche are holed up on the north shore of Charlotte Sound waiting for the wind to drop. It was too rough to attempt a crossing. Likewise, ArdieO has reported high waves at Sanibel.

The weather forecast obviously missed on this one. It may be that the front that was supposed to arrive overnight tonight is already making an appearance. If so, that will eventually bring the wind back around from the north, which will be a great improvement.

If you've tried the Challenge Mapper, you're aware that it's not working right now. Overload most likely, which is a testament to how popular the EC has become. Unfortunately, because KB is using someone else's Spot, I can't log into the account to see exactly where she is.

I left her a voicemail message with a weather report and an update on the Challenge Mapper situation. Next time she turns on her phone, she may see that and check in. I'll let you know.

Underway on Sunday

2011-03-06T08:16:00.004-05:00

I had an e-mail from FwKB a little after midnight saying that KB had reached CP1 at 2348. (That is an amazing accomplishment considering the conditions; last year under quite favorable winds, we reached there just before midnight.) Then at a little after 0200 this morning, FwKB sent a text saying that KB had gotten the Spot from Stan (Etchemin) and was leaving CP1 with Seiche. They appear to have camped on an island a little way south of CP1 and were underway at 0800 this morning.

A few words about CP1 are in order. First, getting there is a difficult navigational feat, particularly in the dark. Here's what it looks like to a seagull.

The checkpoint is at Grand Tours Kayak Center, which is the yellow-orange square toward the top of the image, back on a creek. The competitors must first get under the highway bridge at left, then they must hit the small opening in an old railway trestle that's no longer used. This is not lit and is very hard to see on a moonless night. From there they cannot go straight for the channel opening as it's too shallow. They must go up until the entrance is abeam and then make the left turn. There are shallow spots either side of the channel up to the yacht club just right of the Placida marker. From there on up it's unmarked with plenty of shallow spots. Tide also matters; the current can be considerable on changing tides, and low tide can spell trouble, particularly for the sailboats.

Speaking of, few of the sailboats can get under the highway bridge without lowering their masts. In WaterTribe parlance, this is a filter, equalizing the competition between sailboats and kayaks.

There's one more small gap in the old railroad to hit, and they're at the checkpoint. This is actually a very pleasant spot, with freshwater and facilities. But it's not really a great place to camp for the night. The ground is very hard and unreceptive to tent pegs, and there's noise all night long as competitors come and go. We camped there last year only because we were too cold to continue safely. I was the only one who slept at all, and that amounted to about an hour. That's why KB and Seiche went on to an island south of Boca Grande.

At 0830, the temperature at Boca Grande was 69, and winds were forecast to remain out of the south southeast (on the nose) but perhaps a little lighter than yesterday. A good goal for the day would be Wiggins Pass, south of Fort Meyers.

Saturday Evening Update

2011-03-05T21:11:00.003-05:00

Etchemin has generously offered to lend KiwiBird his Spot, so once she gets to CP1, she may have a track in Challenge Mapper once again. I haven't heard from her since the 1445 call, so she is not yet aware of this arrangement. I've advised FlieswithKiwiBird in case she gets a call this evening.

By all accounts, this has been a tough day for the kayakers. SandyBottom's position at 2050 was roughly where she was last year a little after 1800. Like KB, SB is one tough cookie, and she will soldier through. Of more concern was a Log Book report on the WaterTribe discussion forum that KneadingWater has dropped out with a shoulder injury. Very sorry to hear that. Seiche appears to be making good progress considering the conditions.

Outside, the sailboats have been headed some as well, but they have the option of tacking and can continue to make progress into a headwind. DwSB and SOS are making good progress toward CP1, but it won't be an early arrival.

At the front, SewSew seems to be pulling away a bit from Bumpy and Machoman. These are all international calibre sailors, and I suspect they'll take it down to the wire. The conditions aren't particularly favorable for a new record, but who knows?

This is probably the last post for today, as halftime is about over in the Carolina-Duke game.

Saturday afternoon update

2011-03-05T14:34:00.002-05:00

KB appears to have stopped for a natural break just short of Siesta Key, and SB is perhaps a half nm behind. KneadingWater is another half back, but it appears he stopped for a bite to eat is Sarasota.

KB and KW spent much of the morning together, as they often do. This is already stacking up to be another tag team of the dynamic threesome, and Seiche may make it four. In an endurance kayaking event a group of paddlers may have slightly different rhythms (natural breaks, for example) that result in small gaps, but they're usually in sight of each other during the day and camp together most evenings. It's very much an individual thing, yet there's plenty of camaraderie to go along.

At the front of the race, Bumpy and Machoman and SewSew (21' trimaran) have both passed through Checkpoint 1. DwSB and SOS are outside near YellowThing, but there are a bunch of boats around.

Stop the presses: KB just called (@14:44) and her Spot abandoned ship just south of Sarasota. We won't be able to follow her on the Challenge Mapper any long, but she'll probably be close to SB and KW. I'll expect more calls as well to update her position.

They're off!

2011-03-05T07:46:00.002-05:00

KiwiBird launched right on time this morning at 7:00 am and by 7:30 was on the pointy end of the Class 1 flotilla just behind SaltyFrog. At this point, however, everyone recognizes that it's a very long race, and each paddler is just looking for a sustainable rhythm. Overall, Bumpy is setting his usual rapid pace in his 20' beach cat. He appears headed outside, whereas the kayaks will seek the shelter of the Intracoastal behind the barrier islands.

Tampa Bay is one of the longer open-water crossings and can be fairly rough. Of more concern, however, is the heavy ship traffic. The racers must cross the ship channel for Tampa Bay within a couple of miles of the Mullet Key beach.

The winds are a bit more adversarial than they were predicted to be yesterday, although down Placida way it's still blowing over the beam of south-bound boaters. If this pattern continues, it will be a fairly long day down to CP1. I don't expect KB to be there before late evening--2200 or later.

SandyBottom appeared to be tardy in getting her Spot working but by 7:30 was quite near KB. It takes longer to get the larger, heavier sailboats in the water, and out of courtesy, the sailors let the kayakers start first. Thus DwSB and SOS are a bit behind at the moment, but that won't last.

When I spoke to KB last night, they were about to head to Jo Jo's La Pizzeria for a pasta fest, another tradition for the Triangle crew. Last real food for a number of days, with a possible respite at Marco Island. I'm told KneadingWater can be quite persuasive.

E.C. Traditions

2011-03-04T16:26:00.012-05:00

Apologies for the delay in posting updates on the Florida-bound KiwiBird. Technical difficulties.

KB arrived at Fort Desoto Park about 6:30 pm yesterday in the company of SandyBottom, DanceswithSandyBottom and SOS, with the Core Sound 20 Dawn Patrol that DwSB and SOS will sail in tow. The photograph above is in the El Cheapo truck stop parking lot at the exit ramp from I-95 for Midway, Georgia.

Why there? Fried chicken. At a small stand in the back of the convenience store two ladies serve up some the tastiest cluck you’ll find, along with a selection of fine southern country sides. Last year they hit the spot going both directions, and I expect they will again. For this crowd, the Everglades Challenge is all about traditions. The first is the Wednesday night dinner at SB and DwSB’s, the second is a tardy departure Thursday morning, and fried chicken at El Cheapo comes third. There will be more.

At 7:00 last night, a party commenced at SavannahDan and Paddlemaker’s campsite, so make that tradition four. This year, as last, the E.C. commences on the new moon, and the challenge, if you’ll pardon the expression, at the party is to avoid tripping over raccoons in the dark. Last year we all repaired to the recreation center because it was so cold; this year the mozzies might have forced the same retreat.

First light Friday finds the crew heading for tradition five: eggs benedict at the Village Inn. I’m not entirely sure what DwSB (far left) and SOS (far right) are eating, but KB and SB are clearly upholding the tradition.

With tanks full once again, it’s down the street to the supermarket to pick up the last bits of food to pack for the trip. It’s an even mix between picking up treats (sardines anyone?) and KB talking SB into buying more granola bars.

Back at Fort Desoto, it’s time to get the boats on the beach and pack them. Boats go just above the high tide (WaterTribe rules and common sense), and 15-20 kilos of gear and water get toted down in Ikea bags and then stowed away. Food generally waits until the morning, as the raccoons are ingenious and persistent.

Left to right, these three fellows are Hammerstroke, Sundance and Paddlepeddler. The four of us can tell (and have told) some stories about a sleepless night on an island during last fall’s North Carolina Challenge.

This year sees a record number of entries for the E.C. (71) and the Ultramarathon (13). Since many of those entries have two aboard, the total number of entrants exceeds 100. It’s a busy beach and even more crowded beach shelter for the Captains’ meeting at 1500.

Finally, be sure to check Steve Earley’s blog regularly. He’s the shore contact for SB and DwSB and SOS, and he has a way with words.

All packed, I think

2011-03-02T06:55:00.007-05:00

Andrew and I went to REI last night, to spend my outstanding dividend and a gift card on a few kilos of energy bars for the 2011 WaterTribe Everglades Challenge. We love REI. And it's always better to go on a week night with a nearly-four-year-old, as there's fewer people around when he rides the bikes.

The new Garmin GPSMAP 76CSx arrived mid-morning yesterday, courtesy of an overnight UPS service, and thanks to fellow paddlers KneadingWater and Seiche I now have a set of routes, waypoints and tracks to steer me by. I've even read the user's manual...

For the first time I weighed a few things. I've 6.87 kgs (15.5 lbs) of food, which includes bottles of Ensure for an evening swig, a few freeze-dried dinners, dried mangoes, a few Hammer gels, and lots of bars. I find if I don't eat at least every hour, I tend to fall over.

The rest of the gear weighs in at just over 11 kgs (c 24 lbs), which includes Macpac tent (1.8kgs), Exped sleeping mat (1 kg), sleeping bag (1.4kg), toiletries (1.16kgs, including three WagBags!), gas stove and related (1.36kgs), wet weather jacket (846gms), first-aid bag (286gms), sacrosanct dry gear (1.1 kgs), repair kit (730gms), under deck bag with head lamps, mozzzie head net, bug spray, etc (902 gms), and a tow belt (532 gms). This doesn't count what I'll be wearing, such as the PFD.

I'm not bringing a kayak cart. Race rules have been tightened up this year. Usually, there's been a cart of some sort at Flamingo's CP3, and that's helped us get from one side of Whitewater Bay to Florida Bay--a distance of about 200m. But now we're on our own to make the portage. Instead, I'll unload all my gear into two big Ikea bags, carry those over, and then carry the boat over. The boat weighs 24kg and fits snugly over one shoulder. I'm usually staggering a bit by then, but this should be doable, particularly after one of Flamingo's micro-waved hamburgers and an ice-cream!

So, we leave tomorrow morning for Tampa Bay, Florida, and the race starts at 0700 on Saturday, March 5.

Floatsome will be updating this blog, the Forum's always a good place to keep an eye out for what's happening, and you can watch our SPOT progress on WaterTribe's Challenge Mapper. I'm Kiwibird ;)

Photo: KneadingWater, SandyBottom, KiwiBird and Seiche, at CP2, Chokoloskee, EC 2010.

The last minute, oh, oh's

2011-02-28T07:16:00.005-05:00

I finally managed to start packing yesterday afternoon for this year's WaterTribe Everglades Challenge. Considering I need to deliver everything—including boat—to SandyBottom's on Wednesday night, and we leave pre-sparrow fart on Thursday to drive to Tampa, FL, and the race starts Saturday morning, this isn't bad timing.

Except when you start testing gear and it doesn't work: case of the oh, oh's, which inevitably leads to $$$...

First up was the GPS. My wonderful Garmin Map60CS—lasting four ECs—was the first not to turn back on. (Yes, I should have downloaded all my routes as soon as I returned from last year's EC...) After a few hurried conversations with Floatsome, SandyBottom and DancesWithSandyBottom—and a few discouraging frowns from FliesWithKiwiBird, I am now the (hopefully) proud owner of a Garmin GPSMAP 76CSx (could have sworn it didn't say "Discountinued product" yesterday), with pre-downloaded BlueCharts. I've also downloaded Garmin HomePort, and I should be good to go (when the GPS is (hopefully) delivered tomorrow). Just have to figure out how to get all my routes and waypoints transferred...

Then my costly Princeton Tec Apex Pro headlamp decided to quit. I've never been happy with this bit of gear, always breaking down on me (even with replacements), and it's supposed to be top-of-its-class. I've replaced it with a (slightly) cheaper Fenix HP10. Having a Cree product in it (local company) encouraged me to buy it. The HP10 looks very cool on the Web site, but a bit "Made in China" (which it is) when you finally manage to get it out of its protective thankgoodness-I'm-not-90-packaging, but I'll test it out and see how it goes.

So, let's hope that's all that I'm going to have to replace pre-start this year...

Everglades Challenge 2011

2011-02-21T14:14:00.006-05:00

It's happening again. WaterTribe's 2011 Everglades Challenge launches off the beach in Florida on March 5 at 0700.

This will be my fifth year of competing in the EC, and once again very gratefully sponsored by BUBBA GIRL (more of that to come).

In a nutshell, we have seven days to paddle or sail (depending on which class you're entered in) to paddle the 483kms (300 or so miles) from Fort De Soto's Tampa Bay, south to Key Largo. And once again I plan to paddle via the Everglade's Wilderness Waterway, an additional 48kms (30 miles).

Over the next few days, I'll post on what gear I'll be packing and what training I have (or not) been doing.

(Top photo: the finish of the 2008 EC, before I discovered Hydrope l)

Looking at new gear

2010-11-08T10:03:00.005-05:00

If you read this blog off and on, you'll know that I'm a sucker for new gear that looks useful for sea kayaking. Reading this month's Sea Kayaker magazine, I discovered Aussie company CGear and their very cool sand mats. Some of my favourite kayak camping is on a beach, overlooking North Carolina's great coastal waters. But pitching a tent on sand, and traipsing damp sand through all my tent gear's a pain. CGear's small 1.8meter squared (6'x6') mat looks as though it just may do the trick--sand falls through the mat and doesn't came back up again.

These mats should also be perfect for our WaterTribe Everglades Challenge. Throw the mat out, strip off, clear all the sand off the damp, tired body, and jump into my pit--this should make for much better in-and-out procedures.

The small mat weighs 1.65kg (3.65lbs), which sounds just fine.

I'll keep you posted...

Round balls

2010-06-25T20:07:00.013-04:00

Now that New Zealand's All Whites are on their way home after a rather fabulous showing at the World Cup--one of only four countries in the history of the World Cup to have not lost a game and not to go forward to the next round--it's interesting that Kiwis are finally showing some interest in the round ball game of football. The oval ball associated with rugby is usually the foremost sport in most Kiwi's minds, or perhaps the much smaller, hard red ball of cricket.

But recent photos from home remind me that netball is still one of the top three--perhaps four--sports in NZ. While there are international women's teams in football, rugby and cricket--and even female jockeys and yachties--no men play netball.

It was one of my sports growing up, along with softball, tennis, football and field hockey (just plain "hockey" in NZ). I well remember wearing my black, pleated tunic uniform, with GA on my bib (Goal Attack, for the uninitiated).

Both my nieces play NZ netball, the older of the two playing very competitively. One day, I hope both may have the chance to play for the Silver Ferns, NZ's national netball team.

The past is B&W

2010-06-14T20:26:00.006-04:00

My brother Rob, in NZ, has bought a fancy new scanner to scan the hundreds of photos he's borrowed from dad. Taken from the 1920s to around the 1970s, they cover 50 years of dad and mum's history.

With dad and my sister Clio, we've been trying to fill in the gaps of who's who. With mum dying in late 2001 and dad at 89, we're testing all our memories.

Above is dad (9) and his sister Beth (11), 1930, on their way to the Matapihi Native School; and below, dad in 1941 (20), with his new bike, shortly before heading off to the Pacific for WWII.

All good stuff.

Getting around to it...

2010-06-12T22:45:00.008-04:00

It's taken nearly five years of planning and procrastination, but today I finally threw away the plastic barriers (above) held together with scavenged piping, bricks and old broom handles that I have called a sorry excuse for a 'gate', ostensibly to keep the dogs in leading up to the pool at the top of the driveway.

And I built a new 'gate'--one to be fairly proud of--and no rain was going to stop me hanging the hinges as the clock ticked on past cold beer time and being called for tea.

On the (edge of the) water

2010-06-09T16:19:00.009-04:00

Another great weekend with Andrew caravanning in the '72 Shasta. Decided last minute to go straight after work to Jordan Lake on Friday instead of Saturday, to get the most out of the terrific weather. And attract more ticks...

Across the way from Greensboro was Larry and his Brazilian wife, both keen fisher folk, who took Andrew under their rods and introduced him to the concept of really catching fish.

And Saturday night, Nancy and David (Floatsome) and Dawn (SandyBottom) and Paul (DancesWithSandyBottom) joined us for dinner.

Just as we were sadly packing up later Sunday afternoon (one of us actually crying that he did not want to leave, actively trying to unpack his bike), Dawn turned up in full sailing regalia, having hopped off their Core Sound 20 Dawn Patrol, to say, "Ahoy".

Counting the days 'til the next trip...

Memories on Memorial Day

2010-06-04T09:54:00.004-04:00

Went caravaning again this past weekend--four lovely days over Memorial Weekend at Lake Jordan's Poplar Point.

I can't yet get Andrew into a kayak, but he does like to sit in a sit-on-top (courtesy of Doug-up-the-road), when it's firmly grounded.

Fishing is his big thing now. Teach a kid (3) to fish, and you have time to either fish with them, or even read a book. He has his cast pretty well off pat, which is a fine thing to see. The patience will come--playing with the live bait can sometimes be a bit more fun.

Fly about

2010-05-27T14:16:00.003-04:00

I'd much rather compliment than complain, but sometimes one is just driven to find the correct online outlet to vent one's ire.

That was me this morning, after being told by an American Airlines gate/desk representative at La Guardia yesterday afternoon, that stand by doesn't exist anymore and I would have to pay $50 to get a seat on an hour's earlier flight returning to RDU/home.

I trudged off and bought a cup of tea, and went back again to double check that I heard correctly. And I had. My response was that I'm already a customer, and there are spare seats, so why can't you just put me on an earlier flight? No go.

So I wrote to AA this morning with my complaint. I have to admit, they served me well in response. I can't be the only person today complaining about AA (surely?), but a personal e-mail was only an hour or so in return.

I believe their answer sucks, as below (this was an Eagle Airways flight with only about 30 or so passengers, so everyone was being served who went up to the desk), but doesn't one feel somewhat placated that someone heard one's complaint?

...we've made some changes to our standby policy for tickets purchased on or after February 22, 2010. These changes were made in an effort to streamline the boarding process at the gate and to give our airport agents more opportunity to provide assistance to those customers that are confirmed on a particular flight.

Still, unlike some of our competitors, we are by no means eliminating a customer’s ability to take an earlier flight. For a $50 charge, if space is available on the day of departure, we will confirm you on an earlier flight. This option not only gives you the opportunity to get to your destination sooner, it also eliminates the uncertainty of standby travel.

Being on a roll, I also wrote to the NY Port Authority, which manages La Guardia, to mention that I'd seen an airport cleaning employee emptying the recycling into the general rubbish bin and then disposing of them together.

Just imagine what I'm going to be like when I'm nearing 70!

Los Angeles tripping

2010-05-08T15:20:00.003-04:00

The view from my Beverly Hills hotel window. On one of the buildings dead amidships is a ten-storey hanging of Buzz Lightyear, with a big "3" top right. My hero.

Currently in LA for a few days business, heading home tomorrow. Don't miss the traffic from our previous four years living in San Diego, but do miss the weather.

Got growled at from home when walked 4.2 miles along Santa Monica Blvd and Wilshire to my first meeting at the Hammer Museum. "No one walks in LA!" The person I met with made me take a taxi back to my hotel. Probably a good thing, as was wearing dressish shoes and got some severe blisters, walking the last mile or so to the Hammer in my socks.

Yale tripping

2010-04-28T21:15:00.014-04:00

Just returned from three days in New Haven, at Yale University, for this year's Art Museum Development Association (AMDA) conference, hosted by Yale University Art Gallery and Yale Center for British Arts. Terrific time meeting all my development peers.

Prior to leaving, I'd signed myself up for an 0730 tour of the campus. The morning's rain didn't put me off, the tour given by a junior architectural student who is also the editor of Yale's student newspaper, Yale Daily News. The nation's future looks bright with such a terrific lad.

Among the highlights, we poked our noses inside the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library (above), repository of millions of first editions, including the c.1454 Gutenberg Bible, the first Western book printed in movable type. Our guide explained that in trying to decide what stone to use for the exterior, the architects had travelled the world far and wide, searching for just the right material, to later find it just up the road--Vermont granite and marble. At just 31.75mm thick, the marble filters light in, on a sunny day bathing the room in a soft yellow glow.

Another curious moment for me was standing outside the rather decrepit looking building belonging to Yale's notorious Skull and Bones Society (above). No sign conveys its ownership, the steps leading up to the chained, double padlocked door are crumbling, as are parts of its stonework. Quite fitting that the rain stepped up its patter on our umbrellas as we stood on the footpath across the road.

Apart from the building above and its purpose, the campus brought back many wonderful visual memories of my years working at and living in Cambridge (the UK one).

PS. all photos from my mobile phone.

When at sea...

2010-03-30T07:11:00.008-04:00

Another sad sea faring story's unfolding off the coast of New Zealand. Paul Van Rensburg left Tauranga (my home town) for Gisborne on March 12--a two-day trip--and went missing shortly later. After three days of searching off the east coast--a search then abandoned--his 12-metre yacht Tafadzwa was found Sunday by an Orion out on training, drifting about 110kms west of the Chatham Islands.

A Chatham fishing boat went out to tow it in, and found his dinghy and kayak securely lashed topsides, everything snug down below, baskets of fruit still hanging in the companion way, and his dog--scared but okay.

As you can see from the photo atop, the reefed mainsail's thrashed, as is the headsail. But even without bad weather, which it appears from everything snug below may not be an overriding factor, sails can deteriorate very quickly when not tended to.

It hasn't been mentioned in reports, but it looks like this is another possible case of a yachtie peeing standing over the side instead of in a can/something (!) in the safety of the cockpit. When at sea, sit to pee ;)

Police are currently scouring his GPS tracks for any clues.

Courtesy of the New Zealand Herald, you can find some good photos and video here.

Further dry land adventures

2010-03-29T14:28:00.017-04:00

The WeeOne and I headed off for another weekend away in the caravan to Jordan Lake's Poplar Point Campground: I didn't need too much encouragement to make it a three-day weekend with him, in our 1972 Compact Shasta.

While the weather wasn't shorts-friendly as last weekend's trip, we still had a grand time. One good thing about picking a site with power is that one can turn on a small heater for the jolly chilly mornings one encounters. And we left the kayak on the roof of the 4Runner...

I also dug out the old and very worn awning that was thrown in when we bought the Shasta, which was great for Friday's showers.

Once again we spent many an hour on the bikes and exploring Jordan Lake's beaches. I now appreciate that boys throwing rocks into water is an inherently male genetic trait.

And Doug-and-Kathy-up-the-hill joined us on a beautiful spring Saturday for lunch and a walk on one of the campground's many trails. Every bridge had to be checked for taniwha!

Everglades Challenge Report: Days 6 & 7

2010-03-29T07:10:00.002-04:00

DAY 6

SandyBottom and I were away paddling by 0730, leaving the boys packing... We had to wait for dawn before decamping to have enough light to take some decent photos of our Shark River Chickee set up!

The wind was up, the expected 10-15 knot sou’easterlies kicking in rather nicely, contributing to a very nice wee chop up Whitewater Bay. With that flying in our faces, we headed east behind the lee of Whitewater Bay's northern keys to take Joe River down to Flamingo. It was going to be a long 42km (26-mile) day.

Taking Joe River adds a few kilometres and doesn’t shelter you 100% from the wind, but at least it decreases a fair amount of the chop that builds up the length of Whitewater Bay. And there are many small mangrove points you can tuck in behind to take a few minutes respite from the wind (above. Can you see the chop in the background? That's Joe River chop--imagine Whitewater Bay's).

For nine hours we plodded down the river.

Half way down, we bumped into RunningMouth and Scareman: RunningMouth solidly plugging away in his Kruger making good time; Scareman sheltering (above) behind the lee of a mangrove point almost at a standstill with the head winds battling his aka/ama arrangement. In the true spirit of WaterTribe, KneadingWater and Seiche took him in an inline tow, for three miles to Joe River Chickee. (He rested there until later that evening, coming into Flamingo with HammerStroke and SunDance.)

At 1645, we pulled into Flamingo and CP3 (a daylight stop!); first and foremost on our minds that the store was still open for their 45-second micro waved hamburgers and Dove ice cream bars—never in my normal life would I eat these burgers, but in Flamingo after six days paddling 483 kms (300 miles), they taste pretty darn fine. With a beer. We fantasize about these burgers for a full year.

Wearily we loaded boats on to trolleys and trundled them on to the grass verge opposite the ramp on the Florida Bay side of the marina. We ate and drank. We bantered for a few hours on tonight's forecast wind and rain and tomorrow’s even more dire forecast. And as night fell, we found the best place yet to stealth camp, without a tent or hammock. For the first time, I was too hot in my sleeping system. And there was the occasional mosquito. (And no rain.) Finally, we’re in Florida.

DAY 7

0530. Still dark, we arose from our hidden pits. Everyone was all a-tizz. Was a dreaded forecast storm heading our way, with lightning, thunder and heavy rain? Or not? On Seiche’s iPhone, the very colourful and impressive storm cell over the middle of the state was dropping four inches of rain every hour, but heading nor-east over Venice. Root, Flamingo’s checkpoint volunteer, was not too keen on us heading out into near death. We ummed and we aahed and we figured, hang it, we’re WaterTribers! SavannahDan‘s advice also helped—never in recorded history has a kayaker been struck by lightning. That cinched the deal. We ate, packed, carried boats over to the ramp, and scarpered; Savannah Dan and PaddleMaker in their tandem, SandyBottom and I on the water by 0700.

The trick with Flamingo and tackling Florida Bay is just to leave. If grotty weather runs in, there are plenty of keys along the way to pull over and hide from the elements. And then there’s always the next day to finish the remaining 58kms (36 miles) from Flamingo to the finish at Key Largo.

With that in mind, we headed off. We even had the sails up for a wee bit, in breezy yet flat calm conditions. But for the long stretch from End Key to Jimmie Channel, we hit a true headwind—about 10-12 knots—with a very messy chop. And even then we managed 3 knots.

From the twists of Jimmie Channel to the finish at Key Largo, it was one of our best rides ever. Very nearly a broad reach all the way, with sails flying, averaging 4.6 knots, even hitting 11.4 km/h (7.1 mph) on the last stretch.

We arrived at the finish at 1632. An hour later, the heavens broke--thunder, lightning, pouring rain and 26 knot winds. But of the last paddlers coming, no one got hit by lightning...

Another year over.

Of the 42 boats who started the 2010 Everglades Challenge, 24 finished. Cheers to all 42 of you. And to the additional eight continuing on the Ultimate Florida Challenge, kia kaha.

Key Largo: A very damp pre-shower Kiwi, on dry land once more. (The white on the merino Icebreaker top is dried salt--seven days constant use, and still smelled as fresh as a daisy ;)

Everglades Challenge Report: Day 5

2010-03-26T07:22:00.004-04:00

DAY 5

Off Lostman's Five (above): Scareman left around 0400, and SandyBottom followed him about half-an-hour later, hell bent on doing the Nightmare for the first time. Guiltily I lay in my cosy pit and waited as dawn crept in.

Packing quickly, swatting the occasional mozzie (no, Florida's coldest winter on record had not killed them all off, merely made them hungrier for fresh meat), I left Seiche and KneadingWater as they heated coffee and packed, on the water just before 0700.

An hour or so later, the 7-10 knot headwinds kicked in. Reaching the top of Rogers Bay, I cut straight down the bay to enter Cabbage Cut, a bit of a shortcut to Rogers River, 3-4 kms long and about three to four metres wide. If you want to see alligators in the Wilderness Waterway (WW), this is the place to see them. And I was not let down—four this year! And some biggies (above, not using the zoom;)!

I reached the T-crossing of Rogers River, praying for at least a tailwind against the inevitable incoming tide. And who sped past me but Scareman, with Pacific Action Sail ablazing, full dry suit and bug net decor (above). I didn't feel so bad after all, him leaving three hours before me. But I did tell him he was going too fast for bugs!

Heading out the river, KneadingWater and Seiche caught me but lingered back. Offering a bribe of a lunch to stop at Rogers River Chickee from KneadingWater, I declined, to try and catch the Nightmare at a decent state of tide, the entrance being just past the Rogers River ground site.

The 13.7 kms (8.5 miles, but seems much shorter) Nightmare has conjured visions of horror and near-death experiences over my four ECs. I had to take it! The route serves as a "shortcut" between Rogers and Broad Rivers, so you don’t have to take the outside coastal route to either the Broad or Harney Rivers, the latter being the preferred re-entry to the WW. But if you do take the Nightmare, you are committed to the tangle of Broad River at its most western end, which I was familiar with!.

The tide was down nearly a metre, but the route was fine—hardly any overhanging branches, no pythons nor alligators, and just one thick downed branch across my path to scrape the boat over at a fast paddle. My fears had been conquered. And just as I met up with Broad River, KneadingWater and Seiche caught me, also taking the Nightmare (and having see one alligator guarding the Nightmare's entrance).

Reaching the tangle of Broad River (above)—much more exciting than the Nightmare—we pushed our way over and under fallen limbs. This was my second time taking this route—the first being my very memorable first EC, with SandyBottom in her Kruger, in the pitch black with only one headlamp...

Consistently against wind and tide we meandered along, down the Broad—taking a ten minute stretch break (above) on the Harney River Chickee—through to the Harney—a very long stretch hugging the sides of the mangroves, and then nipping around the corner onto Shark River.

No matter how many times I do this particular part of the Wilderness Waterway, it never ceases to amaze me that if you have a headwind paddling west on the Harney, you will also have a headwind when you turn the 180-degree corner on to Shark River, paddling east. (I am open to explanations!)

Night fell as we searched for our stop for the night, Shark River Chickee. Convinced that Dawn was either fast asleep on the chickee, or perhaps even in Flamingo!, we called out to her in the pitch black… to hear an “I’m behind you!” from aft. She had just caught up to us.

Having been a bit spooked by the alligators down Cabbage Cut, she’d decided not to do the Nightmare on her own, and had taken the longer outside coastal route, re-entering on the Harney River.

Nice that we were all there together, arriving around 1930 hours.

Getting ourselves all set up over the next hour or so was one of the highlights of the trip. The chickee is a nearly 4x4m platform, with a narrow walkway leading to a Port-a-Loo. We wanted all the boats up with us for ease of unpacking and repacking the next morning. SandyBottom's and my boat were laid diagonally across the walkway, we hung KneadingWater’s in the rafters, with his cockpit full of everyone’s paddles, and Seiche’s boat lay across one side. We then pitched three tents (my Macpac not free-standing but fine tying chickee-level lines four corners out) and SandyBottom hung her hammock above my tent. This left a small space in the center for "lounging" and cooking supper. A great memory of the trip. Though everyone but me snored all night…

During all the heaving of boats, we lost KneadingWater's SPOT overboard...

Everglades Challenge Report: Day 4

2010-03-25T07:03:00.007-04:00

DAY 4

Up and off in the early daylight, thoroughly enjoying our sandy, secluded camp spot (above), we headed from White Horse Key for Everglades City’s Ranger Station and nearby CP2 at Chokoloskee.

Though the wind was against us, we made the delicious incoming tide up the longish Indian River, arriving at the Ranger Station around 1100. Grabbing my wallet, I headed straight up to the Ranger office for our Wilderness Waterway camping permits--another filter--with the campsites Lostman's Five and Shark River Chickee in mind. Sites were filling up fast, and the rangers had a white board up with all the full ones. A frustrating 30 minutes later, even though first in queue, knowing I was missing out on ice cream time, I had our permits for four kayakers in hand.

At the ramp, a group of Duke students were heading off in their rental tin canoes for a few days in the Ten Thousand Islands. I told them I was also at Duke, working at the Nasher Museum: “We love the Nasher!” Made my day.

We scooted under the causeway bridge and began the long paddle up to CP2 (above) behind the causeway, against the tide and wind, finally checking in at Chokoloskee's CP2 at noon. Seiche’s parents, Jerry and Mina, were there again to meet us, travelling the EC route in their RV. Topping up with a bit of water, depositing used WagBags, we headed off on our Wilderness Waterway (WW) adventure.

Paddling the Wilderness Waterway adds about another 48 kms (30 miles) to the overall EC route, but I can’t imagine doing the EC without not experiencing this section—it adds another whole exciting dimension and, you get an extra tooth for your troubles!

Dodging the stiff headwinds coming down the bay to the entrance of the WW, we scooted across to the more sheltered Lopez River—a slightly longer route, to meet up with the WW a mile or so on.

And on we paddled, into the night, through the very dark Alligator Alley, finally reaching Lostman's around 2015, having paddling 43.5 kms (27 miles) just from Chokolokee.

Scareman was already bunked for the night, with his huge tandem Passat and ama/aka system. We soon had him up and chatting as we ate a cooked dinner. Paddling the route unofficially, after missing the start due to illness, he was happily doing as much of the route as possible. A good, keen man.

Everglades Challenge Report: Days 2 & 3

2010-03-24T07:17:00.006-04:00

DAY 2
Water supplies replenished at a very busy CP1, we were off at 0700 the next morning.

DaveOnCudjoe had capsized his beloved Sea Pearl Maggie the previous day, and after four hours sitting on his upturned hull, had been rescued by fellow WaterTriber, Ika. Just as I left CP1, Ika sculled in, with Dave on the bow (above). Tears welled up in my eyes, as I told him I was very glad to see him.

Paddling with Floatsome, we took a shortcut west of the ICW, cutting directly down the west of Sandfly Key. Deciding to take the inside of Pine Island Sound, we had a great sail across the expanse to the north of Pine Island. A large basking shark cruised by me.

Then Floatsome (above) started flagging. As an accomplished Ironman and triathlete, he recognized that the previous day, while more than doable, wasn’t normally followed by the same effort for another five or six days. For six hours we slowly sailed down Pine Island Sound, my concern mounting. His wife had threatened me to bring her husband home alive! I made the decision with him to pull him out, up ahead at the nearest hotel. Around 1700 hours, two miles from Punta Rassa and the western of the three Sanibel bridges, to my surprise, KneadingWater and Seiche appeared. We hadn’t seen anyone else doing the inside route and thought everyone else far ahead of us. Taking an on-the-water diagnosis, KneadingWater (cat vet extraordinaire) considered Floatsome’s problem to be a potassium overload. Taking him in an inline tow, unable to paddle, KW and Seiche had Floatsome on the beach of the Punta Rassa Marriott at nearly 1800 hours. Linda, the catering manager on duty at the dock went out of her way to ensure that his gear was safely stowed in her office, and that he found a dry, safe room. (The next week, back home, I called the hotel to have her commended.) Floatsome’s first EC was over. You can read his experience here.

Into the dusk and night we paddled down the coast, RiverJohn and his wife once again waving madly from the beach as we passed. In the very dark night, the shoals of Big Carlo Pass and New Pass were quick to wake us from any dosing, a wave or two suddenly breaking over us out of the dark. We made Wiggins Pass around 2240 hours, another long but satisfying day in the cockpit.

NatureCalls was already tent bound, having arrived about a half-hour earlier. And to my surprise, again thinking everyone would be ahead, SandyBottom, SunDance and HammerStroke turned up near midnight.

DAY 3

A leisurely pack in beautiful morning sun (above). At 0800, off and away, this time with SandyBottom aside me. Around Doctors Pass, KneadingWater and Seiche joined us, and we comfortably paddled down the coast toward Big Marco Pass. The plan was to have dinner at Goodland restaurant, up the head of the Big Marco River. An experience I had never given myself in my four ECs—eating for fun while in race mode!

For a change of scenery we headed into the very scenic Gordon Pass (above), adding some additional distance, but a new route for me, and nice to see it in the daylight, as it’s often a good escape route from grotty coastal weather when trying to make Big Marco. While KW and Seiche stopped for a nap, SB and I headed up the Big Marco River, tide and wind in our favour. (Can I comment here how many times this does not happen!)

Near 1700, we dragged our boats up some riprap outside Goodland restaurant (above), donned beanies to cover ghastly hair, plopped our wet bottoms in a nice dry cane chair, and ordered some wonderful sea food. Lovely.

Every time a paddler came by, we’d dash out on to the restaurant’s pier and wave them down to join us. We soon had FourFather, Seiche, KW, HammerStroke and SunDance. Fearing for his fragile amas, RunningMouth kept on.

We heard from FourFather (left; the father of four children) his previous night’s experience, of being caught by New Pass’ shoals—capsized, he swam the very cold half-mile to shore and spent 12 hours shivering in tent on the beach, trying to warm up.

As dusk fell, the seven of us paddled up and out into the Everglades’ Ten Thousand Islands, with White Horse Key in mind for the night, about another ten miles paddling. Arriving around 2230 hours, we split FourFather, HammerStroke and SunDance into one beach spot that fitted the three of them, and SandyBottom, KneadingWater, Seiche and I headed around the other side of the island, to another beautiful spot.

Everglades Challenge Report: Day 1

2010-03-23T18:21:00.019-04:00

Leaving a chilly Durham, NC at 0530 in the morning, with SandyBottom and Floatsome, we headed off on the 12-hour drive to Florida, to compete in 2010’s WaterTribe Everglades Challenge: a 300+ mile race over six to seven days of sea kayaking or sailing, from Tampa's Fort De Soto to Key Largo, via the Everglades' Wilderness Waterway. As the rules state (p22, in red): "you may DIE".

Prepared to endure Florida’s coldest winter on record, we’d packed many a fleece, down jackets and sleeping bags for the first two nights camping at Fort De Soto, before the race started March 6, at 0700. And downright chilly it was, too.

Seventy boats slowly appeared on Fort De Soto’s beach over the Friday leading up to the late afternoon’s Skipper’s meeting: 20 for the 67 mile UltraMarathon to Placida’s Check Point 1; 42 for the 300+ miles Everglades Challenge; and another eight for the every-four-years Ultimate Florida Challenge—1,200 miles around the state of Florida.

And what a variety making up the races’ six classes: sea kayakers—solo and tandem, an expedition windsurfer, self-designed and -built prototypes, stock Sea Pearls and class racing boats, Kruger canoes—something to mull over for everyone.

And the word must be getting out about the race, as this was the biggest crowd I’d seen on a Friday viewing the craft and chatting with skippers, and seeing everyone off early on a Saturday morning.
Saturday, March 6, 0700: a cry goes up for the start. The kayakers are quick away, having just their boats to drag from above the highwater line. The bigger boats have a variety of ingenious methods to get themselves into the water, but whatever they use has to be taken with them for the entirety of the race. The first filter of the EC.

The weather was perfect. Cool and sunny. For the next three days we enjoyed predominantly northerly winds, pushing us along with our one square-metre Pacific Action Sails. For those craft that today headed to the outside, they were later to experience more severe conditions, resulting in two capsizes and rescues, both by fellow WaterTribers.

With the weather being so unseasonably chilly, following the Inter Coastal Waterway (ICW) for the first day was the calmest I’d experienced in my four ECs—hardly any pleasure boats were ripping up and down, normally contributing to a frustrating confused wash.

As night fell, SandyBottom, Floatsome (his first EC), Seiche (also his first EC), KneadingWater and I fell in together and paddled the last 15 or so miles to CP1. We finally made it at 2355 hours, the 68 miles taking us 16 hours and 55 minutes. We dragged our boats up amongst a sea of other boats, and set to pitching tents right there. After my first EC I have no interest camping at CP1—it’s too noisy and the hard coral ground makes pitching tents a chore. But no one else was interested in heading a mile or so away for a better spot.

It was very cold. Again I am grateful that FliesWithKiwiBird insisted that I pack a stack of handwarmers. I changed into every stitch of dry clothing I had and thrust a handwarmer down each sock against my solid white feet. Bliss. And still I experienced uncontrollable shivering.