Monday, March 12, 2007

Back into the swing


All-in-all, this would have to be the best adventure of my life!

SandyBottom and DancesWithSandyBottom got me home safe and sound last night around midnight. It was a loooong drive home... and a very tiring day at work.

Thanks so much to everyone who followed my progress and gave me so much encouragement and inspiration - it meant a lot.

And all my thanks to FlysWithKiwiBird, who kept the blog updated and WaterTribe in touch with where I was at all times (where possible) - couldn't have done it without you! Which also means that I need to be a very very good bird for the next 12 months to try and get permission for next year's EC.

I did get growled at for not having some longer contact cell phone conversations, but I'm amazed at how focused one becomes when one's in race mode!

In the next few weeks I'll try and work to find the time to post blog entries on all the adventures we had, gear used and just what the true story is behind the above photo (courtesy of SnoreBringGator) of KneadingWater apologizing. In the meantime, there won't be too much paddling - the baby's room needs to be painted and prepared - it's week 32 tomorrow!


Saturday, March 10, 2007

EC Day 7... Safely Crossing the Finish Line!


KiwiBird arrived safely at the finish line in Key Largo yesterday at 15:08 tired, but with a smile on her face in thanks for the bucket of adult beverages waiting for her courtesy of KneadingWater.

There are so many stories to tell about this adventure (many that will be told by all Watertribers tonight after the awards ceremony/prize giving) that I'll let her fill you all in on the details when she returns on Sunday night.

Many thanks to everyone who has been following KiwiBird's adventure this last week and keeping positive vibes/prayers flowing her way. For official challenge results please see:
http://watertribe.com/DataAccess/Results.aspx .

For her first race at an expert level after less than two years of experience in a kayak (with a Greenland paddle no less!), the bird didn't do too badly.

PS. the photo above is from KiwiBird's cell phone.



Friday, March 9, 2007

EC Day 7..Three Miles From Finish Line!


DancesWithSandyBottom just called in from a sail boat outside of Key Largo and reported seeing KiwiBird three miles from the finish line! He said she has charted a straight course for the finish, which means she is heading in to the wind and should take about one to two hours to reach land.

Yesterday, KiwiBird called in at 15:30 to report she had reached Check Point 3 along with DancesWithSandyBottom, but had somehow lost KneadingWater along the way. Her Verizon cell phone wasn't receiving reception so she was calling via a borrowed phone, hence the minimal report.

After forceful prodding, she did admit that she saw "lots of alligators". And also reported that she "lost" her wallet two days ago at Check Point 2.

I thought this might of interest to those of you who are not familiar with the dangers of this race. It's the warning that is posted on the Watertribe site that all competitors have to read and sign before being admitted to the race.

No one ever said that KiwiBird was rational.


THIS IS A DANGEROUS EVENT
No Liability Or Responsibility

All people, companies, and agents associated in any way with any WaterTribe Challenge or event do not accept any liability or responsibility what so ever for your safety and well being.

Your safety and well being are your responsibility.

Consider the following:
The WaterTribe Challenges are long, grueling races that are extremely demanding, both physically and mentally. Entrants are encouraged to consult a physician to ensure that they are in good health and can withstand the rigors that participation entails. The physical demands of the race, combined with sleep deprivation, heat, cold, water, dehydration, and exhaustion, often cause participants to become disoriented. Amnesia, hallucinations, hypothermia, and other debilitating conditions are not uncommon. Such effects can impair judgment, a condition especially dangerous for the solo paddler or sailor.

All participants are required to comply with Coast Guard and local regulations regarding safety equipment and operation of their boat. Required Coast Guard equipment includes, but is not limited to, a PFD, signaling equipment, and lighting. Although the event rules require this compliance, the event organizers and associates will not take responsibility for your compliance. Your compliance is your responsibility.

A PFD is required by the Coast Guard and it is strongly urged that all participants wear them at all times. Weak swimmers or non-swimmers should not be in this race.

Water, even under normal conditions, involves certain inherent dangers. A person in a boat may be struck by overhead branches or man-made objects. A person may be struck by lightning. A boat may strike a stationary or floating objects causing injury. A boat may collide with another boat. A person in the water may be pulled under. He/she might be pinned against the boat or another object or under the sail. Boats and swimmers can be swept out to sea or into shoreline hazards. Even slow-moving water or small waves have tremendous force.

All participants are expected to be experts in their sport, their watercraft, and their equipment. Participants are expected to use watercraft that is seaworthy and suitable for the course. Participants are expected to be able to control their watercraft in any and all conditions. Participants are expected to become familiar with the course. All potential hazards of these races cannot be listed in this warning. If you are not an expert paddler and or sailor, do not enter this race. Even if you are a well prepared expert you may die.

Many participants will be tempted to travel at night. You should be aware that night travel adds to the potential hazards. Night travel also involves certain Coast Guard regulations on required lighting. Regard these regulations as minimums. As an expert you should be better prepared.
The effects of heat can be extremely debilitating and lead to injury or death. As an expert you are expected to know how to prevent and treat heat exhaustion and heat stroke.

The effects of cold water and weather can lead to hypothermia which can result in injury or death. As an expert you are expected to know how to prevent and treat hypothermia.
As an expert it is expected that you know how to protect yourself from the sun.

Lack of proper hydration (drinking fluids) and nutrition (eating) can exacerbate all dangerous aspects of the course and can result in injury or death. As an expert you are expected to know how to eat and drink properly before, during, and after the race.

Fresh water may not be available anywhere along the course except at the checkpoints. Animals will break into your boats and rip open plastic jugs to get at your water. After they take all your water, they will take your food. An expert would not let this happen.

Animal hazards are common. Within the last few years there have been several attacks on humans resulting in serious injury and/or death. These attacks have come from bears, cats, dogs, sharks, alligators, rattlesnakes, cottonmouths, coral snakes, sting rays, barracuda, spiders, bees, hornets, wasps, fire ants, ticks, and mosquitoes. Other dangerous or annoying critters, too numerous to mention, are also in abundance. As an expert you are expected to know how to counter these attacks and it is expected that you have an adequate first aid kit and that you know how to use it.

Mosquitoes are ever present year round in Florida and especially in the Everglades. November through March are the best times for less of a mosquito problem but they can still be dangerous. Mosquitoes can carry disease including, but not limited to West Nile Virus. And there have been documented cases of large animals dying from mosquito bites alone due to loss of blood. As an expert you are expected to be able to deal with mosquitoes.

There are poisonous plants in some parts of Everglades National Park that can harm or kill you. Poison from the Manchineel tree was used by the Calusa Indians against Ponce de Leon and his men. Eventually, Ponce de Leon was killed by an arrow covered with Manchineel sap. If you rest in the shade of these trees, you will receive droplets of burning sap. Rain running off the leaves is poisonous. If you burn the wood, the smoke is poison. If you eat the berries, they may be the last thing you eat. Rubbing the wood on your skin will poison you. As an expert you should be able to recognize the Manchineel tree and all other poisonous plants.

As an expert it is expected that you would not be in these races without any special medications required for allergic reactions or for any other reason.

As an expert it is expected that you will carry a GPS, a VHF, and a cell phone. Even experts are required to carry an EPIRB/PLB for WaterTribe Challenges. No expert would allow these items to fail due to water intrusion or lack of batteries.

As an expert it is expected that you will listen to current weather reports and that you know how to predict and deal with the weather around you. Remember that the race will not be put on hold for weather delays, but as an expert you should be able to determine if weather conditions are not safe for you and your craft. It is not necessary for anyone to travel during a small craft warning.

Weather of less severity than required for a small craft warning can still present dangerous conditions. As an expert it is expected that you can recognize dangerous weather conditions and take appropriate action.

Even though you consider yourself to be an expert you may be injured or die in this event. Rescue services are not provided by WaterTribe or anyone associated with this event. There are no chase boats. There are no life guards. There are no paramedics or doctors. You are on your own. If you get in trouble, you should call the Coast Guard or 911 or passing boats. Only after you have been rescued by them should you call Event Officials to inform them of your situation.

If you drop out of the Challenge at a check point, race officials will make an effort to pick you up and transport you back to your car as soon as possible, but there may be delays lasting several days before you can be picked up. You will not be transported to any place other than your car and/or the finish point. If you are not at the appointed place at the appointed time to get picked up you will be left behind.

If you drop out of the Challenge anywhere, you are on your own and no effort will be made to transport you . You will be on your own. If you do not notify race officials that you have dropped out, you could be liable for search and rescue costs.

This warning cannot list all hazards, dangers, or other safety considerations. Assume this is a very dangerous event that can cause your injury, death, or mental anguish. By entering this event, you are asserting that you are an expert and you take full responsibility for your own actions.

Let me try to explain this one more time. By entering any WaterTribe Challenge, you are agreeing that all the people, companies, and agents associated with the event owe you nothing nor do we owe you duty of care or any other duty. We promise you nothing. We do not and will not even try to make this event safe for anyone. This event is not safe for anyone. This is no joke. We won't even try to warn you about every known danger or hazardous condition, whether we know about it or not. If we do decide to warn you about something, that doesn't mean we will try to warn you about everything. If we do make an effort to make some aspect of the event safer, we may not correct other aspects, and we may even make matters worse! We and our agents may do things that are unwise and dangerous. Sorry, we're not responsible. We may give you bad advice. Don't listen to us. In short, ENTER AND PARTICIPATE IN THESE EVENTS AT YOUR OWN RISK. And have fun!

I, __________________________, have read, understand, and agree to all contained herein. Further I release ANY AND ALL PARTIES associated in any way with this event from liability or responsibility. I am an expert paddler and/or sailor, and I can take care of myself. My physical condition, mental acuity, and health is good and more than sufficient to meet any and all challenges before, during, and after this event. In the event of my death, incapacity, or disappearance, I direct my heirs, family, friends, attorneys, agents, and all other associates and representatives to hold ANY AND ALL PARTIES associated with this event harmless and free from liability or responsibility.

Signed: ________________________________
Date: ________________________________
Notary: ________________________________



Wednesday, March 7, 2007

EC Day 4...Change of Paddling Strategy


KiwiBird called in on Day 4 at 08:03, bright eyed and feathery-tailed, as she was in line at the Ranger's station for a permit to camp over the next two days in Everglades National Forest.

Previous plans had not called for entry into the Wilderness Waterway, but strong winds that propelled her south faster than expected and forming an ad hoc team with SandyBottom and KneadingWater convinced her to take a bit of a longer route. So the Three Musketeers will now be travelling together in a cell phone-free zone for the next two days, which means there will be no field reporting until most likely Friday.

Thanks to DancesWithSandyBottom for the following detailed routing for the Musketeers:

"The ad hoc team will travel the Wilderness Waterway down to Whitewater Bay and from there to CP3. From CP2 about 8:30am Tuesday, they will paddle ~25 miles to Plate Creek Chickee (or further on to Rigers River Chickee). Then on Wednesday they will paddle ~30 miles to Harney River Chickee (or farther on to Oyster Bay Chickee). Then on Thursday they will paddle ~30 to Flamingo. Perhaps cross the ~35 miles of Florida Bay on Thursday or Friday."

KiwiBird has reservations starting Friday at the Bay Cove Motel at the finish line (Flamingo), so I think she will be pushing to arrive on time. Thankfully, NOAA's weather forecast for Friday includes winds north to northeast near 10 knots, bay waters at a light chop and isolated showers. Not a bad way to end a 300-mile race!

(photo: courtesy of Kontiki's wife Heather of Foster Photo, from Wiggins Pass campsite)

Monday, March 5, 2007

EC Day 3...KiwiBird Hits 11.9 MPH !!!


KiwiBird called in at 05:30 this morning reporting a good night's rest and her intention to reach Check Point Two (CP2) by the end of the day. The photo above shows KiwiBird with SandyBottom last night on the beach at Wiggins Pass, courtesy of Kontiki's wife Heather of Foster Photo. I bet you never saw a KiwiBird with yellow feathers before!

It was feast or famine today with a maximum speed of 11.9 MPH (a personal record), moving average of 5.5MPH and overall average of 4.3MPH. While the personal record was thrilling, she was down to only 1.5MPH atpaddling against the tide up the entrance to Chokoloskee on her way to CP2. She reached CP2 at 19:15 this evening, charting a total of 174 miles since the start of the race.

It was another spirited ride for KiwiBird as she endured constant sea spray in her face, while sailing over 6-8 feet swells powered by 15 knot north-northeasterly winds. At one point a large wave broke over the back of her Arctic Raider kayak and almost capsized her. She said that if she had capsized at any point during the high winds she didn't think she could have gotten back in the boat and would have had to call for a rescue.

Her wildlife encounters included more dolphins and pelicans, plus a few white egrets and blue herons. It seems the gators have gotten the word that KiwiBirds are not very tasty, as nary a one has been sighted as of yet.

Tomorrow KiwiBird will head south to Check Point Three. Chief announced the winning team (a class 4) hitting the finish line today after 2 days, 8 hours and 56 minutes. Props to Roo and Tinker for an awesome run!!!

KiwiBird Quote of the Day: "When that wave broke over me, it was a wee bit scary!"

EC Day 2...Dolphins, Pelicans & Sharks..... Oh My!


KiwiBird called in at 06:30 on day two of the Everglades Challenge from Check Point One. After a good night's sleep she was anxious to get on the water, allowing for a whole 10 second phone call to say she was off and heading south.

Day Two's stats include completion of 51.8 miles in 12 hours with a maximum speed of 8 MPH, a moving average of 4.3MPH and an overall average of 3.9 MPH.

KiwiBird reported that from CP1 to Sanibel Bridge was long and a bit arduous. She had to take her sail down prior to reaching the bridge and paddle hard against a stiff headwind. She traveled solo all day, only Sandybottom and Pelican in the distance after she'd passed them.

She also reported seeing lots of dolphins, pelicans and the odd shark, but no reports of alligators, yet. Some human wildlife in the form of Kontiki's wife Heather and friend Jason was encountered about four miles off shore after reaching Sanibel Bridge. Some photos were taken that she'd love to publish on her blog.

At 20:05 she called in and reported that she had reached Wiggins Pass about an hour prior, had set up camp on the beach and was looking forward to a hot meal. Sandybottom and NatureCalls arrived an hour or so later.

Day three's plan is to reach CP2 and then assess paddling strategy.

KiwiBird's Quote of the Day: "I've decided that I hate Clif Bars right now."

Saturday, March 3, 2007

EC Day 1...Oh, What a Day!!!

KiwiBird reached Check Point One this evening, at approximately 9:10PM. She reported an exhilarating day of sailing that started with a wave dumping water into her kayak 10 feet from the start line, requiring her to paddle back to the beach for a bailout.

The paddle across Tampa Bay was tempestuous, with several boats capsizing around her, one requiring a coast guard rescue. Swells were at 5-6 feet, with northerly winds at 15 knots. Her Kiwi-made Pacific Action Sail was up day and night, even through the rain, as she charted 65 miles in 13 hours and 49 minutes.

KiwiBird's highest speed was 9 miles per hour(mph) across Tampa Bay with a 4.8 mph average moving speed and 4.6 mph overall average.

She ran aground at one point and also found herself on the wrong side of the channel at another, forcing her to get out of her kayak and having to drag it across a sand bank.

KiwiBird was in good spirits, having taken a warm shower, jumped in to some dry clothes and waiting for the boiling water to work its magic on her meal in a bag. There should be more reports throughout the day tomorrow, as she was also notified of the new 8-hour check-in rule, necessitated by today's and the forecasted aggressive weather.

KiwiBird Quote of the Day:

"Wow, it's been just thrilling! If the Challenge was to end today, I'd be happy to go home!"

Thursday, March 1, 2007

Thelma & Louise's Excellent Adventure


Well, as of 0600 hours today the two female solo Watertribers have started their road trip to Tampa. They're hoping to hit the campsite by 1800 hours in order to join with their fellow Watertribe members for a bit of food, "grog" as the KiwiBird would say, and no doubt lots and lots of yarns.

It was just a bit of chaos yesterday evening as partners tried to provide support to the duo, one by providing sustenance and the other by staying up most of the night, ensuring that every item on the checklist was packed. This was in between many supportive phone calls from friends and family and double, triple and quadruple checks of all the gear.

Check out Sandybottom's Watertribe necklace, including the alligator tooth earned last year at the 1,500 mile Ultimate Florida Watertribe Challenge.

Last minute purchases for KiwiBird included a digital audio recorder, battery-operated cell phone charger and lamination of her tide charts and paddling strategy.

After a rather restless night of sleep, a full thermos of Earl Grey tea and a box of Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies for the road, Sandybottom (aka Thelma) and KiwiBird (aka Louise) are ready to start their most excellent adventure!

Posted by: Flys with KiwiBird

Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Rising tides


If Greenland's ice mass were to melt, sea levels would rise by 7m. Even if sea levels rose by 1m, imagine the effect on our coastline and those around the world.


"We fixed the voting problems in Florida." "How?" "Florida's gone, mate."

These were some of the snippets I heard in conversation with a group of eminent scientists that Sigma Xi, The Scientific Research Society and my employer, had convened in collaboration with the UN Foundation to prepare a report on confronting the impacts of climate change, or climate heating as it probably should be known. We were in NYC yesterday to present the report, Confronting Climate Change: Avoiding the Unmanageable and Managing the Unavoidable, to the United Nations and its new secretary-general, Ban Ki-moon.

An exciting couple of days, but ones with salutary messages. The science on climate heating is precise enough now to tell us that we have to stop carbon and other emissions. Now. And if we continue as business as usual, we are literally, and figuratively, cooked. Humankind is largely responsible for what is happening, and the harm is accelerating. The impacts won't just be dangerous to human well-being, but catastrophic.

What was different about our report is that for the first time we offered to the international community a road map for mitigation, adaptation and sustainability. But there's no one silver bullet - an entire set of solutions has to come into play.

There are also win-win solutions - the report makes that clear.

Life offers many options. In this respect we only get two: we either get it right; or we don't.

Everyone needs to wake up and do their bit. Both as individuals and as a collective. The time to act is today. We're not talking a hundred years plus from now - the effect of climate heating will be felt even more within the next decade or two.

And I for one would like Florida's Everglades to still be around for later Everglade Challenges!

Photos: Katie and Kristen get a peak within the UN; the UN from the 10th floor of NYU's medical school - it was a chilly day!

Sunday, February 25, 2007

Last paddle


It was my last paddle out on Jordan Lake yesterday before the Everglades Challenge kicks off. The boat was fully loaded, and the weather couldn't have been more perfect. Even had to take my jacket off.

Bumped into Dawn (SandyBottom) along the way, and exchanged photos. And bumped into Dee on the way back, so paddled home together.

Managed 26 miles in about 6.5 hours, but felt pretty knackered by the time I got home. I'm trying to talk myself into the fact that adrenalin, painkillers every four hours, eating every hour and drinking Gookinaid regularly, will keep me going for 16 hours paddling a day, for seven to eight days.

And we call this "fun"...

I'm off to NYC tomorrow for three days business. I work for Sigma Xi, The Scientific Research Society, and we're presenting a report on climate change to the UN. Two years in the making, but hopefully it will all help the cause.

And Thursday, Dawn and I are driving down to Florida! Rumours abound that there's a WaterTribe party that night...